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From Sericulture to Masterpiece
- Silk connects India’s history, tradition and art, evident in iconic silk sarees like Kanchipuram and Banarasi.
- Silk is made from silkworms that eat mulberry leaves. The silkworms spin cocoons, which are then turned into silk threads and woven into fabric.
- India is the second-largest producer and consumer of silk globally.
- India’s raw silk production increased from 31,906 MT in 2017-18 to 38,913 MT in 2023-24.
- The area under mulberry plantations grew from 223,926 ha in 2017-18 to 263,352 ha in 2023-24.
Silk and silk goods exports grew from ₹1,649.48 crores in 2017-18 to ₹2,027.56 crores in 2023-24.
Introduction
Silk is a thread that connects India’s history, tradition and art. From the rich, bright colors of Kanchipuram sarees to the earthy beauty of Bhagalpur Tussar, every silk saree tells a story. They are made from pure mulberry silk, woven with care and skill by artisans. This craft has been passed down through generations. As the loom hums with the rhythm of their hands, the silk saree comes to life—not just as clothing, but as a symbol of India’s diverse and vibrant soul, stitched together by the art of silk.
India’s Journey of Sericulture
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Sericulture is the process of farming silkworms to make silk. Silkworms are raised on mulberry, oak, castor, and arjun leaves. After about a month, they spin cocoons. These cocoons are collected and boiled to soften the silk. The silk threads are then pulled out, twisted into yarn, and woven into fabric. This careful process turns small silkworms into shiny silk.
Economic Role of Silk in Developing India
India is the second largest producer of silk and also the largest consumer of silk in the world. In India, mulberry silk is produced mainly in the states of Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, Jammu & Kashmir and West Bengal, while the non-mulberry silks are produced in Jharkhand, Chattisgarh, Orissa and north-eastern states.
- Mulberry silk comes from silkworms that eat only mulberry leaves. It is soft, smooth, and shiny with a bright glow, making it perfect for luxury sarees and high-end fabrics. 92% of the country’s total raw silk production comes from mulberry.
- Non-mulberry silk (also known as Vanya silk) comes from wild silkworms that feed on leaves from trees like oak, castor and arjun. This silk has a natural, earthy feel with less shine but is strong, durable, and eco-friendly.
Silk is a high value but low volume product accounting for only 0.2 % of world’s total textile production. Silk production is regarded as an important tool for economic development. The developing countries rely on it for employment generation, especially in rural sector and also as a means to earn the foreign exchange.
India’s Silk Market Overview
- India’s raw silk production has experienced steady growth, rising from 31,906 MT in 2017-18 to 38,913 MT in 2023-24.
- This growth is supported by the expansion of mulberry plantations from 223,926 ha in 2017-18 to 263,352 ha in 2023-24, which boosted mulberry silk production from 22,066 MT in 2017-18 to 29,892 MT in 2023-24.
- Total raw silk production increased from 31,906 MT in 2017-18 to 38,913 MT in 2023-24.
- Exports of silk and silk goods rose from ₹1,649.48 crores in 2017-18 to ₹2,027.56 crores in 2023-24.
- As per Directorate General of Commercial Intelligence and Statistics (DGCIS) reports, the country exported 3348 MT of silk waste in 2023-24.
Silk waste consists of leftover or imperfect silk from the production process, such as broken fibers or pieces of cocoons. While it’s regarded as waste, it can still be repurposed to create lower-quality products like silk yarn or fabric, or even recycled into new silk items.
Government Schemes in Silk Development
Government schemes play a crucial role in the growth of the silk industry in India. These initiatives provide financial support and resources for various activities related to sericulture:
The Silk Samagra Scheme is an important initiative by the government to improve the sericulture industry across India. Its objective is to scale up production by improving the quality and productivity and to empower downtrodden, poor & backward families through various activities of sericulture in the country.
The scheme comprises four (4) major Components:
- Research & Development, Training, Transfer of Technology and I.T. Initiatives,
- Seed Organizations,
- Coordination and Market Development and
- Quality Certification Systems (QCS) / Export Brand Promotion and Technology Up-gradation.
Silk Samagra-2 is an extension of this effort with a budget of Rs. 4,679.85 crore for the period 2021-22 to 2025-26. These interventions help improve the entire silk production process, from raising silkworms to producing quality silk fabrics.
- So far, Rs. 1,075.58 crore has been provided in central assistance, benefiting over 78,000 people.
- Financial support has been given to Andhra Pradesh (Rs. 72.50 crore) and Telangana (Rs. 40.66 crore) for the last three years to help with Silk Samagra-2 components.
In addition to Silk Samagra-2, there are other schemes that support the silk and handloom sector:
- Raw Material Supply Scheme (RMSS): The Yarn Supply Scheme (YSS) with partial modification and renamed as Raw Material Supply Scheme (RMSS) has been approved for implementation during period from 2021-22 to 2025-26. To make available quality yarn & their blends to the eligible Handloom weavers at subsidized rates. Total 340 lakh kg of yarn has been supplied during financial year 2023-2024 under the Scheme.
- National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP): The National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP), running from 2021-22 to 2025-26, aims to support weavers in the handloom sector, including silk fabric producers. The scheme takes a need-based approach to foster the integrated development of handlooms and improve the welfare of handloom weavers. It provides support for raw materials, design, technology upgrades, and marketing through exhibitions. Additionally, it helps create permanent infrastructure like Urban Haats and marketing complexes, benefiting weavers both within cooperatives and in Self-Help Groups.
- Scheme for Capacity Building in Textile Sector Scheme (SAMARTH): Launched by the Ministry of Textiles, it is a demand-driven and placement-oriented program. Extended for 2 years (FY 2024-25 & 2025-26) with a budget of Rs. 495 crore to train 3 lakh people. Scheme focuses on entry-level training, as well as upskilling and reskilling in Apparel & Garmenting, handloom, handicraft, silk, and jute.
These schemes have helped improve the quantity and quality of raw silk produced, contributing to the growth of the silk industry in India.
Conclusion
India’s silk industry has grown well with help from schemes like Silk Samagra and Silk Samagra-2. These have supported farmers, weavers and rural families. With more focus on training, new ideas, and better markets, India can become a global leader in silk. This will also help keep our silk traditions alive.
